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Octavio Diaz and Sons

GUEST OPINION: Celebrating 25 years of helping Sonoma County

Press Democrat

Published: Wednesday, June 5, 2013 at 7:00 p.m.

Last Modified: Wednesday, June 5, 2013 at 4:09 p.m.

As the Hispanic Chamber of Commerce of Sonoma County celebrates its 25th anniversary, we are inspired to reflect on our past and plan for a future with many challenges but also ripe with opportunities.

Every day, we witness the great struggles that community members, especially Latinos, continue to face as we recover from the greatest economic crisis of our lifetimes. Most gains from decades of government investment in anti-poverty programs were wiped away in the Great Recession. The current economic climate proves that it is only when our local economy thrives that government can provide the services that residents expect and deserve.

We now have the opportunity to chart a course that will take Sonoma County to a brighter future, with Latino business owners creating jobs and charting new paths for expansion and innovation.

Wine, mescal and mole

Pumpkin bread with slow cooked pork, Mole de Oaxaca, toasted pumpkin seeds and plaintains served with mezcal, top left, served in a decorated gourd at Agave Mexican Restaurant and Tequila Bar in Healdsburg CRISTA JEREMIASON/PD

Published: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 at 3:00 a.m.
Last Modified: Monday, October 15, 2012 at 2:44 p.m.

Octavio Diaz was only 13 when he came to Rohnert Park from Oaxaca to live with his aunt and uncle and get an education. He graduated from Rancho Cotate High School and moved on to study hospitality in college before working as the food and beverage director at the Sheraton Hotel in Petaluma for many years.

January 30, 2013 Food & Drink » Dining

Healdsburg’s Royal Family

The Diaz dynasty: Molé, Agave and a whole lot of corazón


SHARED PASSION Octavio Diaz with mother Juana, who routinely travels to Oaxaca to buy ingredients for her famed mole. - Sara Sanger

  • Sara Sanger
  • SHARED PASSION Octavio Diaz with mother Juana, who routinely travels to Oaxaca to buy ingredients for her famed mole.

When he was just five years old, Octavio Diaz was burned by a kettle of hot milk while watching his mother make hot chocolate over their open-flamed adobe oven. Despite the pain to his chest and arms, Diaz stuck by his mother’s side, absorbing her techniques, her recipes—and mostly, her passion.

“We are the first generation of men in my family who love to cook,” he says of himself and his brothers.

For the past decade, the Diaz family has steadily climbed the culinary ladder in Healdsburg, where they now own two restaurants and a market. Diaz’s brother Pedro runs El Farolito on Plaza Street, having started as a dishwasher eight years ago; his youngest brother, Francisco, runs a second location in Windsor. On Cinco de Mayo 2010, Diaz opened Agave Restaurant & Tequila Bar in Healdsburg’s Safeway shopping center, a location that belies the restaurant’s gastronomic sophistication.

And just this past August, with a music- and masquerade-filled celebration, Diaz opened Casa del Molé Mercado y Carniceria on Center Street (formerly Los Mares), named for his mother Juana’s increasingly famous mole negro, which she makes from scratch weekly. Every few months, Diaz’s parents return to the Zocalo market in their native Oaxaca to procure several of the 32 total ingredients—which include plantains, walnuts, animal crackers, chocolate, and a variety of chiles—that give mole its distinct flavor.

Passed down through four generations of Oaxacan women, Juana’s unique recipe contains no lard or sugar, though she does use local Gravenstein apples and golden raisins for sweetness. The entire process takes about three days, from the first roasting of the chiles to the final jarring of the sauce, which is available for purchase at Casa del Molé ($12.99 for a 16-ounce jar). “One of our secrets,” Diaz confides, “is to remove all the seeds from the peppers, because they are bitter. It takes a lot of work, but it’s worth it.”

Hard work comes naturally to Diaz, for whom success is the only option. “I cannot fail,” he tells me matter-of-factly. As the oldest of seven siblings, he feels the pressure of being a leader for his family, many of whom have gained citizenship over the past decade, and whose generosity made his restaurant dream a reality. “In this economy, our family is our bank,” says Diaz, “which allows us to stay out of debt and not pay interest.”

When he was 13 years old, Diaz left Oaxaca to live with his aunt and uncle in Rohnert Park. During high school, he worked as a busboy at the Red Lion Hotel (now the Doubletree), where he met a hostess and college student named Nancy. “I used to ride my bike to SSU from Rancho Cotate to see her,” Diaz says of the woman who’s been his wife since 1997. Red Lion proved auspicious in another way as well. “That’s where I discovered my love for hospitality,” he says.

Though Diaz toyed with the idea of being a teacher, one semester of teaching a beverage-management class in the SRJC culinary program convinced him otherwise. “It was very hard,” he admits, “and I realized I wanted to stick with restaurants instead. I have the highest respect for teachers,” says Diaz, who credits the SRJC with helping him achieve his goals.

When it comes to food, Diaz is committed to bringing more vegetables into Mexican cuisine. Casa del Molé’s produce section is even bigger and more colorful than the pastry case, and Diaz gets as excited about cabbage as he does about their homemade chorizo and goat stew. “It’s like having our own farmers market,” he says of Casa del Molé, which supplies all three of the Diaz restaurants, “but it’s open every day.”

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